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Note on the Shawl Collar
 

How do you start writing about the shawl collar?
The shawl collar is important in womens-wear but it is also an important 'collar' in mens-wear. The shawl collar is a type of collar for a tuxedo. With the right fabric and colour, a shawl collar could be the right look for the tuxedo and it could be the right collar/lapel for the tuxedo because for a jacket/tuxedo, it is the collar and lapel which are central elements of the jacket of course. And the formality that you get with the jacket/tuxedo links to the formal lapel and collar- there is a straightness and direction about the shawl collar in a tuxedo. It is possible to widen the lapel in a shawl collar and maybe shorten the distance to the first button but this is changing the look of a shawl collar and it may not be what people think of when they think of a shawl or roll collar. You can experiment with the shawl collar by keeping its general look and design i.e. the aim is to have the lapel run into the collar so that there is no specific collar and lapel. However above all the shawl collar should have a certain length and roll. If there is a wide lapel or a shortened distance to the first button, you can ask would there be a proper roll. That means that the shawl collar is a 'look' with a specific rolled lapel and a specific length to the first button. You can see it with the application of the shawl collar to men's tuxedos.

There is a view that one inch at least should be added to the shoulder neck point so that a new neck line is created. This means that the collar and lapel run closer to the neck. I can imagine that different manufacturers may have different measurements. There is a man's shawl collar tuxedo on http://www.etuxedo.com/images/a6trevi.jpg. This is a single breasted shawl collar and you can see the lapel run into the shirt. However, on this shawl collar tuxedo, there seems to be more space and room at the collar area: http://www.tuxetop.com/images/shawl-collar-foreigner.jpg. Of course, you also have to take into account that in the first image, the man has a waist coat besides a shirt but there seems to be more space still in the second image. The second man is taller of course and a longer length jacket may be suitable for him. Still in the first image, there is a closeness in fit in the shawl collar. It is because of the length to the first button. This seems to be the important variable. Still these images show that the shawl collar tuxedo has a certain elegance and fit. The distance to the first button can be gauged to show the inside shirt and if the wearer has a tie, then the tie also.

In the tuxedo, the shawl collar has a certain elegance. The shawl collar is also important for women and there was a specific shawl collar look in the early twentieth century which could be elegant and chic. The key was the proper roll. This is just a view but it is possible that the true shawl collar must have that specific roll and in men's tuxedos, for example, that roll can be seen.


 

 

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